Why are durags more than a fashion accessory?

For many, durag, like a hijab, are simple fashion accessories that are linked to a certain culture or group of people. Despite this, there is much more history and meaning behind the stereotypes societies create of them.

Photo by: Natasha Kendall from Pexels

In 2020, American singer Rihanna made history by appearing on the cover of Vogue using a durag. At the time, it generated various online debates about the real meaning of durag within the black culture. But is there really a meaning behind durags?

Durag is a piece of cloth or a wave cap that people wear around the head. It's usually worn to accelerate the waves' development, dreadlocks, and braids in the hair. Some people, especially women, also use it to protect their hair.

Durag's history dates back to the 19th century. It was first used by African-American enslaved women to cover and protect their hair. It is believed that at that time, durags were a distinctive symbol that these women used to recognise themselves.

Years later, during the Harlem renaissance, durags began to be used to maintain hairstyle. It was after the popularisation of the Black Power Movement — a movement that emphasised racial pride, economic empowerment, and the creation of political and cultural institutions between the 1960s and 1970s — that the durags became a symbol of black popular culture.

Today the durags are a fashion statement affirming the pride of being black, and honouring the past of black people across the world. Durags are now used by both men and women, and are made in various colours and shapes.

In Britain there are several shops where durags are sold. At Brixton Market, in London, there is the “Black Beauty” store. Durag prices can range from £1.88 to £3.55.